Day Three - St Jean Pied de Port - Leon

After such a full day, our nighttime drink in the bar of our hotel, and a bowl of blackcurrant ice cream (!) we were more than ready for sleep!  This was achieved very easily, and we were away in the land of nod by 10.30 pm!  Very early for me!!  Unfortunately we both woke around 3.30 am and sleep eluded us!  We made two cups of tea, chatted and soon it was time to get up to shower and dress!  After a most satisfying breakfast chatting to two people who were commencing their Camino that morning,  we packed the car and were ready to roll out of beautiful St Jean Pied de Port to ascend into the hills on our way to Spain.   The scenery was so spectacular we had to stop two or three times just to soak it all in and to take photos of the lush green trees, the sparkling rivers and waterfalls and the outstanding panoramic views!  It wasn't long before we crossed over into Spain.  Over the hills we came to a place called Roncesvalles where there was a large pilgrims centre for people to stay.   We stopped and wandered around finding a large church within the complex.  A euro in the slot meter and the lights came on to reveal all of the treasures of the church,  all very ornate and typically Spanish.  We took even more photos especially as there were Camino signs and a road sign to Santiago de Compostela of 790 Kms! 

In our car we travelled and realised the heat was turning up!  We passed Pamplona (apparently frequented by Ernest Hemingway) heading into flat countryside with no shade, we could see the walkers on the route!  They looked very exposed to the elements!   We were amused to see a stork in its nest on top of a large chimney type structure on the roadside!  That had to be photographed!  

We had heard the legend about St. Domingo de Calzada, a man who worked tirelessly for the pilgrims, caring for their needs and even creating a hospital back in the Middle Ages, in a town named after him! There was also a myth about a cockerel and a hen, and as a result there is a live cockerel and hen kept in a medieval cage within the cathedral.  We parked intrigued to see what we could find out.  We discovered a quaint old Spanish town with loads of character.  A castellated town wall dating from the 1300's has been taken over by storks!  Their haphazard nests perched on the corners of the turrets!  There must have been at least six storks in their nests busy with their young!   An excellent sight!  

We parked and walked down a little medieval lane with ancient buildings either side of us, on the ground a series of Compostela shells showing us we were on the pilgrim route!  The lane opened out to a square and the most ornate enormous Cathedral, its sandy golden bricks basking in the sunshine!  Three euros each secured us tickets to visit the Cathedral.  We entered by way of a side door which directed us through the most extraordinary display of incredible Renaissance altarpieces and sculpture!  I really did need more time, but had to make the most of enjoying what I could in the time we had!  

Inside the church itself, several outstanding pieces of interest!  A huge ornate altarpiece, the alabaster tomb of St Domingo de la Calzada set aside in an area all of it's own, and of course the live hen and cockerel !  Whilst we were in the Cathedral outside we could hear a band blasting away!  We realised there was something happening because as we had parked the car we had seen people scurrying along dressed in colourful outfits!!  We just got out of the Cathedral and into the bright sunshine, when an almighty bang went off!  I jumped!!!  Then the Cathedral started chiming its bells in the most excited fashion.  People were scurrying to the huge square!  We rounded the corner to find the band and crowds of people many dancing, amongst the crowd were giant figures including a king and queen.  More bangs and much merriment!   It was great to be caught up in this Spanish festival celebrating May!!  The first day of the 'holiday', and these celebrations will continue for five days in total!

Time to leave St Domingo de Calzada, to get out before the crowds!!  We drove out of the little town stopping at a picnic spot by a river and ate our picnic, alongside three men who were walking the way!  

And the heat kept soaring!!!  By 4.30 pm the temperature had reached 28 degrees and we are beginning to get a bit anxious about starting our walk on Monday!   Maybe it will cool down by then?!  Who knows!!!

Because of all the fun we enjoyed en route, we arrived at our destination Leon at around 5.30.  We checked in and put our bags in our rooms, and went out into the town to explore!  Another enormous ancient Cathedral!  It was closed, so we have decided we will visit in the morning.  we went to the Tourist  Board and got another stamp for our pilgrims passport, then found a table in the Cathedral Square for a tasty meal outside in the sunshine.

Today has been a day of storks!  The first one was very special, then we saw several at St Domingo de la Calzada, but many more were waiting for us fields full of them!!!  Also saw black kites!   Tomorrow sees us heading for Sarria in preparation for our walk!